Cremes hidratantes faciais anti-idade: uma revisão dos mecanismos de ação dos diferentes ativos disponíveis no mercado

Abstract

Skin aging is a complex and inevitable biological process driven by intrinsic factors, such as genetics and metabolism, and extrinsic factors, with exposure to ultraviolet radiation (UV), pollution, and lifestyle standing out as the primary accelerators of extracellular matrix degradation. This study conducted a literature review on the process of cutaneous senescence and analyzed the efficacy of active ingredient classes, mechanisms of action, and formulations used to prevent and treat its signs. Skin physiology reveals that the depletion of structural components, such as collagen, elastin, and glycosaminoglycans, combined with the collapse of the calcium ion gradient, underlies the development of wrinkles and skin laxity. Analysis of the active ingredients demonstrated that the efficacy of these cosmeceuticals depends on crucial variables, such as active ingredient concentration, vehicle formulation, and chemical stability in the presence of oxidizing species. Anti-aging actives, including humectants, retinoids, alpha-hydroxy acids, peptides, and antioxidants, function through hydration, cell signaling, epidermal renewal, and free radical neutralization. However, many formulations require the combination of photoprotection and encapsulation technologies to maximize delivery and skin tolerability. Given the growing market driven by contemporary aesthetic pressures, the pursuit of anti-aging treatments should be grounded in a scientific understanding of their chemical mechanisms and conscious consumer choices, avoiding the unnecessary or inappropriate use of potent products while promoting skin health and consumer safety.